food comas

Kutsher’s
Executive Chef: Mark Spangenthal
Cuisine: Jewish-American
Neighborhood: Tribeca
Price: Appetizers $10-15 and Mains $20-30
Address: 186 Franklin Street, NY, NY 10013
Phone: 212-431-0606

Kutsher’s, the iconic Country Club in the Catskills, opened a local outpost in October 2011 right in our ‘hood. The Country Club, open since 1907, has been entertaining and relaxing athletes, celebrities and locals for decades. It began as a getaway for Jewish laborers in Lower East side in turn of the century New York City and grew into the powerhouse it is today, hosting weddings, bar and bat mitzvahs, and serving up delicious and authentic Jewish fare. The Tribeca restaurant is the product of Zach Kutsher, a fourth generation family member, and brings the spirit of Kutsher’s Country Club to this charming bistro.

The restaurant is a lot more spacious than a typical Tribeca joint. But its high ceilings and exposed brick wall (albeit painted) connect it back to old the warehouse vibe of the neighborhood. There are small tables and bigger booths for cozy intimate dinners. The front hallway/bar area also has a communal table for a large group.

The menu features classic Jewish dishes in a refined modern presentation. The brisket meatballs come with a creamy horseradish sauce. The gefilte fish comes with micro arugula and a parsley vinaigrette, and the herring with wasabi and yuzu. I loved the fusion spin and delicate flavor additions to dishes that I’ve always considered to be more comfort food. All in all, it was a perfect way to spend my Christmas Eve (yes, this post is overdue).

Milton’s Shortrib and Brisket Meatballs – caramelized onions and creamy horseradish sauce
Can’t go wrong with shortrib AND brisket in a meatball, and caramelized onions are the icing on the cake

Crispy Potato Latkes with Pastrami, Sauerkraut, Russian Dressing
This was the special of the day, so I am glad we got to try it versus the plain latkes with apple sauce and sour cream. Essentially this is a Reuben on a crispy latke which is just magical.

Tuna Crudo – cucumber, tomato, sea bean, and mustard oil
Great fish appetizer, but not extraordinary

Mrs K’s Matzo Ball Soup – egg noodles, carrots, celery, chives, and dill
A bit bland, but that is the whole point of this soup usually. It’s great for a cold night to warm up, but didn’t stand out when compared to other dishes.

Wild Halibut Gefilte Fish – beet & horseradish tartare, micro arugula and parsley vinaigrette
Not everyone likes gefilte fish, mostly because historically it’s been cooked from carp, pike or some of the cheaper fish. And it’s also a ground up fishball/fishcake, so it doesn’t sound particularly appetizing to most. However, I am not most people. My family happens to make Gefilte Fish (from halibut though) as the Thanksgiving centerpiece instead of a turkey every year.  So I was a huge fan of this halibut take on the traditional dish. The beet and horseradish tartare added a nice kick as well.

Pickled Herring Two Ways – pickled onions & cream AND wasabi & yuzu
I love herring, but this is not for everyone

Grilled Romanian Steak – primed skirt steak with caramelized onions and a roasted garlic and
& wild mushroom knish
Steak. Good. Caramelized onions. Good. Roasted garlic. Good.

Braised Lamb Shank – lentils, roasted tomatoes, currants, parsley and Middle Eastern spices

Sweet and Sour Salmon with Cucumber (chef’s choice)